Texas tomato season is short and intense — but if you time it right, you can grow more tomatoes than you know what to do with. Here’s exactly when to plant in every Texas region, which varieties to choose, and how to beat the heat.

Why Timing Matters So Much in Texas

Tomatoes are warm-season crops, but they have a critical weakness: they stop setting fruit when nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 75°F. In most of Texas, that means your window for tomato production is surprisingly narrow — you need to get plants in the ground early enough to harvest before summer heat shuts them down.

Plant too early and a late frost kills your transplants. Plant too late and your tomatoes flower but never set fruit in the scorching summer heat. Getting the timing right is the single most important factor in Texas tomato success.

Texas Tomato Planting Dates by Region

North Texas (Dallas–Fort Worth, Zones 7b–8a)

Transplant outdoors: March 15 – April 10

North Texas has a last average frost date around March 15–20. You want transplants in the ground right around that window. Starting too early risks frost damage, but waiting until April means less harvest time before summer heat arrives.

Start seeds indoors: January 15 – February 1 (6–8 weeks before transplant date)

Key considerations:

• North Texas can get surprise late freezes into early April — keep frost cloth handy
• Your prime harvest window is May through late June
• Consider a fall crop: transplant again in mid-July for September–October harvest

Central Texas (Austin, San Antonio, Waco, Zones 8a–8b)

Transplant outdoors: March 1 – March 25

Central Texas warms up faster than the northern part of the state. Your last frost date is typically early-to-mid March, giving you a slightly earlier start.

Start seeds indoors: January 1 – January 15

Key considerations:

• Central Texas summers are brutally hot — your spring tomato window closes by late June in most years
• Fall planting (late July transplants) is actually more productive for many Central Texas gardeners
• San Antonio and areas south of Austin can push transplants as early as late February in mild winters

South Texas (Houston, Corpus Christi, Rio Grande Valley, Zones 9a–9b)

Transplant outdoors: February 1 – March 1

South Texas has the earliest planting window in the state. The Rio Grande Valley can plant as early as late January in warm years.

Start seeds indoors: December 15 – January 15

Key considerations:

• Houston-area gardeners should watch for late cold fronts through mid-February
• The Valley (Zones 9a–9b) has essentially frost-free conditions most years
• Summer heat arrives early — plan for harvest to wind down by late May to early June
• Fall tomatoes (August transplant) are very productive in South Texas

West Texas (El Paso, Midland, Lubbock, Zones 7a–8a)

Transplant outdoors: April 1 – April 20

West Texas has later frost dates than many people expect, especially at higher elevations. Lubbock’s average last frost is around April 10–15.

Start seeds indoors: February 1 – February 15

Key considerations:

• Low humidity means less disease pressure but higher water demands
• Wind protection is critical — use walls, fences, or windbreak fabric
• El Paso (Zone 8a) can plant slightly earlier, around March 20
• Hot days with cool nights actually help tomato fruit set in West Texas better than in humid areas

Best Tomato Varieties for Texas

Not all tomatoes perform equally in Texas heat. Choose varieties bred for heat tolerance and relatively short days to maturity.

Determinate Varieties (Best for Texas Spring Crops)

Determinate tomatoes produce their crop all at once over a 2–3 week period, then stop. This is actually ideal for Texas because you get a concentrated harvest before summer heat shuts everything down.

• Celebrity — The gold standard for Texas. Heat-tolerant, disease-resistant, 70 days to maturity. Medium-sized fruit, excellent flavor.
• HeatMaster — Bred specifically for hot climates. Sets fruit at higher temperatures than most varieties.
• BHN 968 — Commercial variety increasingly popular with home gardeners. Fantastic heat performance.
• Tycoon — Large fruit, good disease resistance, handles Texas heat well.
• Valley Girl — Developed for South Texas conditions. Excellent in Zones 9a–9b.

Indeterminate Varieties (For Longer Seasons)

These keep producing until the plant dies. Good if you’re growing in areas with longer windows or planning for fall crops.

• Solar Fire — University of Florida release, exceptional heat tolerance. Sets fruit when others give up.
• Phoenix — Named for its ability to thrive in extreme heat. Smaller fruit but very productive.
• Sweet 100 (cherry) — Cherry tomatoes handle Texas heat better than large-fruited types. These are incredibly productive.
• Sun Gold (cherry) — The best-tasting cherry tomato, period. Good heat tolerance.

What to Avoid

Skip the classic beefsteak types (Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Big Boy) for spring planting in most of Texas. They need long, moderate seasons that Texas simply doesn’t provide. Save these for fall crops or grow them in North Texas where you have slightly more time.

Preparing the Soil for Texas Tomatoes

Texas soils are notoriously challenging. Most of the state has alkaline clay soil (pH 7.5–8.5) that’s heavy, poorly draining, and low in organic matter.

Soil Amendments

1. Comite or compost — Work 3–4 inches of quality compost into the top 12 inches of soil before planting. This is the single most impactful thing you can do.
2. Expanded shale — A Texas-specific amendment that improves drainage in clay soils permanently. Mix in 2–3 inches.
3. Sulfur — If your pH is above 7.5, apply agricultural sulfur according to a soil test to lower it toward 6.5. Tomatoes prefer slightly acidic soil.
4. Mycorrhizal inoculant — Apply directly to the root ball at planting time. It helps tomatoes access phosphorus in alkaline soils.

Raised Beds

If your native soil is particularly bad (solid clay, caliche), raised beds are the way to go. A 12-inch raised bed filled with a mix of 60% quality topsoil, 30% compost, and 10% expanded shale gives tomatoes ideal conditions regardless of what’s underneath.

Planting Technique

1. Transplant depth: Bury tomato transplants deep — up to two-thirds of the stem. Buried stem nodes develop roots, creating a stronger root system that’s better equipped to handle Texas heat and drought.

2. Spacing: Give plants 24–36 inches between plants and 36–48 inches between rows. Good air circulation reduces disease in humid areas (Houston, East Texas).

3. Mulch immediately: Apply 3–4 inches of mulch (straw, shredded hardwood, or leaves) around plants right after planting. This keeps soil temperatures stable and retains moisture.

4. Cage or stake at planting: Install support structures at planting time, not later. Driving stakes into soil near established roots damages them.

Watering Texas Tomatoes

Water management is where most Texas tomato growers struggle. The key principles:

• Deep, infrequent watering — Water deeply every 3–5 days rather than lightly every day. This encourages deep root development.
• Drip irrigation is ideal — Soaker hoses or drip lines keep water off foliage (reducing disease) and deliver water directly to the root zone.
• Morning watering — If you use overhead watering, do it early in the morning so foliage dries quickly.
• Consistent moisture — Irregular watering causes blossom end rot, cracking, and cat-facing. Consistency matters more than volume.

In peak summer heat, established tomato plants in the ground need about 1–2 inches of water per week. Container-grown tomatoes may need daily watering.

Beating the Texas Heat

When temperatures consistently hit 95°F+ during the day and stay above 75°F at night, tomato plants stop setting fruit. The pollen becomes non-viable. Existing green fruit will continue to ripen, but no new fruit forms.

Strategies to Extend Your Season

• Shade cloth (30–50%): Drape over plants during the hottest hours. This can drop temperatures 10–15°F under the cloth and extend fruit set by 2–3 weeks.
• Heavy mulching: Keeps root zone temperatures manageable even when air temperatures are extreme.
• Reflective mulch: Some Texas gardeners use silver-colored plastic mulch to reflect heat away from the soil surface.
• Choose small-fruited varieties: Cherry and grape tomatoes set fruit at higher temperatures than large-fruited types.

The Fall Tomato Crop: Texas’s Best-Kept Secret

Many experienced Texas gardeners actually prefer fall tomatoes to spring ones. The logic is simple: you transplant in midsummer (July–August, depending on region), the plants establish during the heat, and then they start setting fruit when temperatures cool in September and October.

Fall Planting Dates

• North Texas: Transplant July 1–15
• Central Texas: Transplant July 15–August 1
• South Texas: Transplant August 1–15
• West Texas: Transplant July 1–15

For fall planting, you’ll need to provide extra water and some shade during the establishment period. But once temperatures moderate, these plants can produce prolifically until the first frost.

Common Texas Tomato Problems

Blossom End Rot

Black, sunken spots on the bottom of fruit. Caused by inconsistent watering leading to calcium uptake issues. The fix is consistent moisture, not adding calcium.

Spider Mites

Tiny pests that explode in hot, dry conditions. Look for stippled, bronzed leaves. Spray with strong water blasts or use neem oil. Common in North and West Texas.

Tomato Hornworms

Large green caterpillars that devour foliage overnight. Hand-pick them or use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray. Check plants daily during peak season.

Early Blight

Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves. Common in humid areas (Houston, East Texas). Prevent with mulching, good air circulation, and removing affected leaves promptly.

Month-by-Month Texas Tomato Calendar

Month	North TX	Central TX	South TX	West TX
Jan	Start seeds indoors	Start seeds indoors	Transplant outdoors	—
Feb	Start seeds indoors	Transplant begins	Transplant/early harvest	Start seeds indoors
Mar	Transplant outdoors	Transplant/grow	Full growth	Prepare beds
Apr	Full growth	Harvest begins	Peak harvest	Transplant outdoors
May	Harvest begins	Peak harvest	Harvest ends, pull plants	Full growth
Jun	Peak harvest	Heat slowdown	Rest period	Harvest begins
Jul	Start fall seeds	Transplant fall crop	Start fall seeds	Start fall seeds
Aug	Transplant fall crop	Fall crop growing	Transplant fall crop	Transplant fall crop
Sep	Fall harvest begins	Fall harvest begins	Fall crop growing	Fall harvest begins
Oct	Fall harvest	Fall harvest	Fall harvest begins	Fall harvest
Nov	Season ends	Season ends	Fall harvest	Season ends
Dec	Plan for spring	Plan for spring	Season winds down	Plan for spring

Final Tips for Texas Tomato Success

1. Don’t fight the heat — work around it. Accept that Texas has two tomato seasons (spring and fall) with a break in between.
2. Buy transplants from local nurseries that stock varieties suited to your area, not big-box stores shipping the same varieties nationwide.
3. Mulch, mulch, mulch. In Texas, mulch isn’t optional — it’s essential.
4. Get a soil test before your first season. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension offers affordable testing that tells you exactly what your soil needs.
5. Connect with your county extension office. Texas has some of the best extension resources in the country, and they’re free.

Growing tomatoes in Texas takes timing, the right varieties, and respect for the climate. Get those three things right, and you’ll harvest more tomatoes than your neighbors know what to do with.

Looking for a complete, month-by-month Texas vegetable gardening guide? Harvest Home Guides: Texas is coming soon — covering every vegetable, every region, every season.